Into the Hidden Himalayas: My Journey on the Upper Dolpo Trek
The Upper Dolpo Trek is a remote and spiritually rich journey through the hidden valleys of northwestern Nepal, nestled between the Dhaulagiri range and the Tibetan plateau. This off-the-beaten-path trek leads adventurers into a pristine landscape of rugged mountains, high-altitude lakes, and centuries-old monasteries. Starting typically from Juphal or Dunai, the trail traverses through Shey Phoksundo National Park, home to the turquoise-blue Phoksundo Lake and rare wildlife like the snow leopard and blue sheep.
Along the way, trekkers cross several high passes over 5,000 meters—such as Kang La and Saldang La—while exploring isolated villages like Ringmo, Shey Gompa, and Saldang, where ancient Bon and Tibetan Buddhist cultures thrive. The region’s stark beauty, spiritual ambiance, and minimal tourist traffic make the Upper Dolpo trek a deeply rewarding adventure for seasoned trekkers seeking solitude and cultural immersion in one of Nepal’s most mystical regions.
Upper Dolpo Trek starts with a flight over to Nepalgunj and immediately to Jhuphal. This trekking region will continue towards the La Pass, Sibu, Dho Tarap, Serkam, Saldang Phoksundo Lake, Kang La pass, Khani Gaun, Tarakot, Dunai, Ankhe, Renje, and other many more beautiful places of the trekking region. Our trekking will end after the return journey to the Nepalgunj. A Nepal Everest Base Camp Trekking will organize different types of trekking at this trekking area.
Why Upper Dolpo?
Most people come to Nepal for Everest or Annapurna. Few dare venture into the wild expanse of Dolpo, and that’s exactly what makes it so special. The Upper Dolpo Trek is challenging, yes—but also one of the most spiritually and visually rewarding experiences you can have in the Himalayas.
This is not just a trek; it’s a journey through one of the most isolated corners of Nepal. Picture barren, high-altitude deserts, deep blue lakes, thousand-year-old monasteries, and villages untouched by modernity.
The Route: A Path Less Travelled
The adventure usually begins with a flight to Juphal via Nepalgunj, followed by a trek through the Shey Phoksundo National Park, home to the mesmerizing Phoksundo Lake—arguably the most beautiful body of water in Nepal. The trail winds through high mountain passes like Kang La (5,360 m) and Saldang La, testing your endurance but rewarding you with breathtaking panoramas.
Every day brings something new: one day you’re sleeping in a windswept yak pasture beneath a blanket of stars; the next, you’re sipping salty butter tea with monks in a centuries-old monastery.
Culture, Still Intact
What truly sets Dolpo apart is its unbroken connection to Tibetan Buddhism and the Bon religion. The villages here—Ringmo, Shey Gompa, Saldang—are not just stops on a trail, but living cultural museums. Prayer flags flutter in the wind, chortens guard the paths, and mani walls (stone tablets with inscriptions) stretch out like open-air scripture.
In Shey Gompa, I had one of the most profound experiences of the trek—joining monks in evening chants under flickering butter lamps, surrounded by ancient murals and the scent of juniper smoke.
Challenges of the Trek
Make no mistake—this is a tough trek. You’ll be hiking for 20+ days in remote terrain, often above 4,000 meters. There are no teahouses in many parts, so it’s a full camping trek, requiring porters, guides, and detailed logistical planning.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), cold nights, and unpredictable weather are real concerns—but so is the deep satisfaction of pushing your limits in a place so wild and sacred.
Who Is It For?
This is a trek for the adventurous soul, someone who has already experienced classic routes like Everest Base Camp or the Annapurna Circuit and wants something raw, remote, and unforgettable.
You should be fit, experienced in high-altitude trekking, and mentally prepared for long days and total disconnect from modern conveniences.
The Upper Dolpo Trek isn’t just about reaching a destination—it’s about embracing a journey few ever take. In this ancient land of mountains and mystics, you’ll find a deeper connection to nature, to culture, and perhaps even to yourself.
If you’re ready to go beyond the guidebooks and into the heart of the Himalayas, Dolpo awaits.
Trip Itinerary
Outline Itinerary
- Day 01: Arrive at Kathmandu
- Day 02: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and fly to Jhuphal and trek to Dunai
- Day 03: Dunai to Ankhe
- Day 04: Ankhe to Renje
- Day 05: Renje to Phoksundo Lake
- Day 06: Trek to Phoksundo Khola
- Day 07: Trek to Phoksundo Bhanjyang
- Day 08: Cross the Kang La pass to Shey Gompa
- Day 09: Exploration day of Shey Gompa
- Day 10: Cross the Saldang la pass and then trek to Namduna Gaun
- Day 11: Namduna Gaun to Saldang
- Day 12: Trek to Sibu
- Day13: Trek to Jeng La
- Day 14: Trek to Tokyu Gaun via Jeng la pass
- Day 15: Trek to Dho Tarap
- Day 16: Dho Tarap to Serkam
- Day 17: Trek to Khani Gaun
- Day 18: Khani Gaun to Tarakot
- Day 19: Trek to Dunai
- Day 20: Dunai to Juphal
- Day 21: Fly to Kathmandu via Nepalgunj
- Day 22: Farewell
Details Itinerary
Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu and check-in to Hotel.
The representatives from Kingdom Treks will welcome you at Tribhuvan International Airport upon your arrival. He/she Assist in transferring you to the hotel for the overnight stay.
Day 02: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and fly to Jhuphal and trek to Dunai
From Kathmandu, we will have a flight to Nepalgunj. The flight will be about 1 hour. After getting off from plane at Nepalgunj we will spend some hours there and immediately we will again catch the flight to Jhuphal. From Jhuphal, we will move forward to the beautiful trek to Dunai.
- Accommodation: Hotel
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 03: Dunai to Ankhe
From Dunai, we will walk towards the Ankhe after crossing the suspension bridge. We will follow the track of Thuli Bheri and Suli Gad. Our way will be through the cultivated areas of the region passing several villages. We will enter into one of the beautiful national park area of Nepal i.e. Shey Phoksundo. Lastly we will reach to Ankhe after the walk of about 6 hours.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 04: Ankhe to Renje
From Ankhe, we will start our journey through the main road. We need to cross river for several times. After walking sometime, we will make meet our way through the step way which is the narrow path to the cliff. We will stop at many view points of the track from where we can view the panoramic view of great ranges of mountains. Our night will be at tented camp at Renje.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 05: Renje to Phoksundo Lake
From Renje, we will walk to fair path at beginning hour and then we should follow the steep way to the ridge at about 3875m above sea level. We can view the spectecular view of glorious view of mountains from the view point. We will view the first glimpse of Phoksundo Lake at our trek. We will spend the night at the tented camp at Shey Phoksundo Lake at the altitude of 3600m.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 06: Trek to Phoksundo Khola
After spending a cool night at Phoksundo khola in tented camp, we will walk towards the Phoksundo khola. The path goes steeply up to the altitude of 4040m above sea level and we will enter to the flood area of Phoksundo khola. The night will be remarkable at Phoksundo khola at tented camps.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 07: Trek to Phoksundo Bhanjyang
From the Phoksundo Khola, we will walk towards the glacial valley to the Phoksundo Bhanjyang. We will trek though the beautiful meadow where people used to graze their sheep. The unbeaten path will leads us to Shey Gompa to stay the night at tented camp at Phoksundo Bhanjyang at the altitude of 4402m above sea level after a trekking of about 7 hours.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 08: Cross the Kang La pass to Shey Gompa
From the tented camp at Phoksundo Bhanjyang, we will walk to cross the Kang la pass at 5151m in early in the morning. We can see many beautiful natural things from the pass. We will walk through the beautiful route until and unless we reach to Shey Gompa at 4126m above sea level to spend the night over there.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 09: Exploration day of Shey Gompa
At Shey Gompa, we will spend a whole day and night to explore all around there. We can see the beautiful monastery. We will also make a short visit over to the villages of Shey Gompa. Shey Gompa is famous for the beautiful and ancient tradition and culture of Buddhist culture. We will spend an exhilarating day at Shey Gompa enjoying the natural beauty of that region.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 10: Cross Saldang la passes and then trek to Namduna Gaun
From Shey, we will move towards the Saldang la pass which is of about 20 minutes. We will obviously enjoy the beautiful valley of the trekking route. We will slowly and gradually move towards the Namduna village through the beautiful grazing meadows. We will visit all around the monastery of Namduna Gaun where people will be cultivating barley. The night will be memorable at Namduna village at a tented camp.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 11: Namduna Gaun to Saldang
From Namduna, we will march towards the Saldang viewing the Rocky Mountains through the thrilling way. We will walk upward to the beautiful village of Saldang which is one of the biggest village of Dolpo districts. We can see about 80 houses over there. The night will be fantastic at Dolpo region.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 12: Trek to Sibu
After leaving the Saldang, we will slowly move towards the beautiful path through the terraced farming lands to Sibu. Our path goes through the beautiful village of Namdo. At Namdo, we can visit the Namdo monastery located at the river bank. The night will be obviously at the Sibu at the altitude of 3942m after the walk of about 6 hours.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day13: Trek to Jeng La
From Sibu, following the way of the river bank we will move towards the beautiful valley side through the beautiful meadows where people will be grazing yak and sheep. The night will be enjoying at the tented camp at Jeng La at the height of 4369m above sea level after the trekking of about 5 hours.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 14: Trek to Tokyu Gaun via Jeng la pass
From the below of Jeng la, we will continue our journey towards the top of the Jeng la pass to the height of about 4845m above sea level. From the Jeng la pass, we will move downward of the region through the rough trail viewing some beautiful scenery of all around the valley. We will resume our walk until we reach to the Tokyu Gaun from where we can see many beautiful chortens and Gompas. The night will be at Tokyu Gaun.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 15: Trek to Dho Tarap
From Tokyu Gaun, we will walk downward to the Dho Tarap. We will resume our way to the beautiful trail viewing some spectacular view of Mani walls and chortens. After walking for about 4 to 5 hours, we can reach to the Tarap village where mostly magars group people used to live. We can also visit the beautiful Bon Gompa this region. The night will be full of enjoyment at the tented camp at Dho Tarap.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 16: Dho Tarap to Serkam
From the Dho Tarap, we will walk through the way of Tarap khola generally downhill. We may see many blue sheep, yaks and goats which the people are taking to the grace at pasturelands of the region. We need to cross the suspension bridge through the narrow way, we will move towards the beautiful village of Serkam at the altitude of 3630m.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 17: Trek to Khani Gaun
From the Serkam, we will move downward through the gorge of the Tarap River. The path will go some time fairly and sometimes crumbly. After walking for about 6 to 7 hours, we will reach to the Khani at the altitude of 2550m. We can spend the leisure time at Khani Gaun visiting the surrounding area and stay night over there.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 18: Khani Gaun to Tarakot
From Khani Gaun, we will move towards the Tarakot crossing the suspension bridge over there. We will walk towards the Barbung Chu through the fertile lands of Tarakot. We can visit around the Tarakot if we got some leisure time. The night will be spending at the tented camps at the height of 2281m above sea level after the trekking of about 4 hours.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 19: Trek to Dunai
The trail from Tarakot to Dunai goes downward and fairly through the farm of villagers. We will follow the bank of Bheri River continuously until we reach to the beautiful village of Dunai. The trek to Dunai will be the last trek route of the Dolpo circuit. The trekking will be finished at the beautiful pasturelands of the Dunai at 2052m above sea level with the trekking of about 4 to 5 hours.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 20: Dunai to Juphal
From Dunai, we will return to Jhuphal through the same path from where we have taken during the hiking. The trail will go initially through the flat surface and after some time the trail goes steeper to the Jhuphal at 2404m above sea level. The will be about 3 to 4 hours.
- Accommodation: Tea House
- Meals Include: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Day 21: Fly to Kathmandu via Nepalgunj
From Jhuphal, we will catch the flight over to Nepalgunj immediately continue our flight over to Kathmandu. We will surely enjoy the flight viewing some glorious view of mountains from the plane at the top. The night will be resting at Kathmandu at one of the best hotel arranged by A Nepal Everest Base Camp Trekking.
- Accommodation: Hotel
- Meals Include: Breakfast & Lunch
Day 22: Final International Departure
We are saying good bye to the Kathmandu as your journey in Nepal comes to an end today! We will transfer you to the airport for your returning flight.
FAQ
What is the Upper Dolpo Trek?
The Upper Dolpo Trek is a remote and challenging high-altitude trekking route in the northwestern region of Nepal. It offers pristine natural beauty, ancient Tibetan culture, and dramatic landscapes, including Shey Phoksundo Lake, high passes, and Buddhist monasteries.
Where is Upper Dolpo located?
Upper Dolpo lies in the Dolpa district of northwestern Nepal, bordering Tibet. It falls within the Shey Phoksundo National Park and is one of the most isolated regions in the country.
How long is the Upper Dolpo Trek?
The trek typically takes 25–30 days, depending on the route and acclimatization needs. Shorter variations are possible but may skip key highlights like Shey Gompa or Dho Tarap.
What is the best time to trek in Upper Dolpo?
- Spring (April to June) and
- Autumn (September to early November) They
are ideal, with stable weather and clear skies.
Monsoon (July–August) is also relatively dry due to Dolpo being in a rain shadow.
Is a permit required for the Upper Dolpo Trek?
Yes. The region is restricted and requires special permits:
- Upper Dolpo Restricted Area Permit: USD 500 for the first 10 days, then USD 50/day
- Lower Dolpo Permit: USD 20/week
- Shey Phoksundo National Park Entry Permit: Approx. USD 30
You must trek with a registered guide and through a licensed trekking agency.
How difficult is the Upper Dolpo Trek?
It is considered strenuous. Challenges include:
- High altitudes (up to 5,300 m+)
- Remote terrain
- Limited lodges (mostly camping)
- Long trekking days
Good physical fitness, prior high-altitude experience, and proper acclimatization are essential.
What are the main highlights of the trek?
- Shey Phoksundo Lake – turquoise glacial lake
- Shey Gompa – an ancient monastery at 4,200m
- Crystal Mountain – a pilgrimage site
- Dho Tarap Valley – traditional Tibetan villages
- High mountain passes – like Kang La and Saldang La
What kind of accommodation is available?
The Upper Dolpo Trek is mostly a camping trek. Basic teahouses are available in a few villages, but most of the route lacks infrastructure. Agencies organize tents, kitchen staff, and gear.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes, comprehensive insurance covering:
- High-altitude trekking
- Emergency evacuation (helicopter rescue)
- Medical treatment
strongly recommended and often required by trekking agencies.
How do I get to the starting point?
- Flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj
- Then a flight to Juphal (Dolpo’s only airstrip)
From Juphal, the trek begins.
Is altitude sickness a concern?
Yes. Altitude sickness is a serious risk due to the high passes. Proper acclimatization days, hydration, and awareness of symptoms (like headache, nausea, dizziness) are critical.
Can I do the trek solo?
No. Solo trekking is not permitted in Upper Dolpo. You must go through a government-registered trekking agency with a licensed guide.
What should I pack?
Essentials include:
- Warm clothing (down jacket, thermal layers)
- Good trekking boots
- Sleeping bag (rated for -15°C or lower)
- Sunscreen, sunglasses, hat
- Trekking poles
- First-aid kit and personal medications
- Power bank/solar charger (limited electricity)
Your agency typically provides camping and kitchen gear.
How remote is the region?
Very remote. There’s limited or no phone signal and no internet during most of the trek. Medical facilities are sparse or nonexistent. Self-sufficiency is crucial.
Is the Upper Dolpo Trek worth it?
Yes—if you’re seeking solitude, unspoiled landscapes, cultural immersion, and are up for a physical and mental challenge, Upper Dolpo is one of the most rewarding treks in the Himalayas.